Craig Sandle: With thought, chicken can be eggstraordinary

FROM lobster to caviar and oysters, venison to chateaubriand and foie gras, there are certain foods synonymous with fine dining and creating the culinary wow factor.

Even vegetables, in the form of truffles and asparagus, get a look in - but then there is chicken.

It seems that the poor old chicken is going through a bit of an identity crisis, even though it represents 40 per cent of meat sold in this country. With our palates and appetites demanding the gastronomic experience, chicken has been written off as the safe and, well, "boring" dish.

It may be perfectly acceptable for that quick mid-week supper, but not what most people would pick for a dinner party to impress.

But, as a head chef in one of Edinburgh's Michelin star restaurants, I can testify that chicken is less than boring. A healthier alternative to other meats, and lower in saturated fat, it's a good source of essential protein and is rich in vitamin B, iron, copper and selenium.

Then there's the taste. The quality of the meat has a lot to do with it and while organic is more expensive and may not be an option for some, it is definitely the case that you get what you pay for.

Intensively reared chicken live in cramped, dark conditions their whole short lives and the results are revealed in both taste and texture. Organic chicken, on the other hand, is allowed to mature naturally and coupled with access to outdoor space, results in a firmer and more flavourful meat.

So perhaps now is the time to experiment with the myriad of flavours that make chicken shine on the plate. Indian, French, Oriental - there's not a cuisine in the world that doesn't utilise chicken. Be creative with spices to get the most out of your dish.

Why not roast it in a garlic sauce and serve with fries, or chop up the breast to create succulent kebabs on the summer barbecue? Marinades also transform chicken and are a chef's best friend.

Try playing with ingredients in your kitchen, such as soy sauce and honey, or invest in a quality marinade from the supermarket if you're a marinade novice.

To add a bit of luxury to your chicken dish, pay attention to how you complement the meat. Get down to your local butcher and find a fine, local black pudding - it will be delicious either stuffed inside or with a chicken breast resting on it. A shaving of truffle over the top of an ordinary chicken and pasta dish will catapult it into heavenly heights.

With over 860 million chickens produced in this country each year for consumption, there is no excuse to be short on inspiration.

• Craig Sandle is head chef at the Michelin star restaurant Number One at The Balmoral, www.thebalmoral.com, 0131-556 2414.