For peat's sake - Move aside port, cheese has a new friend

WATCH out for a menacing-looking Ardbeg "beastie mobile" on the streets of Edinburgh and Glasgow this weekend. Anyone approaching this dark green parked-up VW will be in for a Father's Day palate challenge.

Forget the perfect "port and stilton" pairing; now it's time to find out whether the Stinking Bishop can hold its own against Scotland's peatiest whisky. Inside the campervan, the wildest whiskies of Islay will be unleashed against the strangest and strongest cheeses from La Fromagerie's boutique.

"It's a way of making whisky fun and accessible," says whisky sensory expert Annabel Meikle. "People love cheese, but few know it can enhance and complement whisky," she says.

It's all about breaking down the "fear factor" of whisky. So it's hoped a nibble of parmesan or sniff of Monty's Smoked alongside a malt will make an unusual finishing note at the end of a meal.

I would have thought Islay's malts, with alcohol levels at 40-58.9 per cent and extremely strong peaty flavours, would swamp those delicate cheese nuances? "You have to be careful not to overpower," says Meikle. "Creamy Brie de Meaux or Bonnet goat's milk cheese could be blasted by Ardbeg ten-year-old, so go for a saltier, briny cheese," she says.

I sat down to do my own research; using the same premise I use matching wine and food. Match flavour with flavour, delicate whiskies with delicate flavours, looking out for a good contrast.

Blasda is Ardbeg's pale delicate "aperitif" malt. I reckoned it would be overpowered by a big blue salty number like Cashel blue. A herby grassy cow's milk cheese or close textured goat's cheese was needed instead. A mature Chabichou from Marais Poitevin proved too pungent. The best Blasda combo was a classic high mountain cow's milk Beaufort with light sweetness and floral fragrance – and it also went well with gentle, complex Saint Marcellin cheese from Isre.

Next I needed to find a salty and earthy cheese to go with stronger Ardbeg ten-year-old. The unpasteurised cow's milk Appleby's Cheshire worked reasonably well with its savoury herby flavour. Surprisingly, the ten-year-old brought out the sweet fudginess of Beaufort Chalet d'Alpage again, but the best was a powerful, salty Isle of Mull cheddar. I think IJ Mellis' version of Blairlath cheddar would also work well.

The biggest test was matching the 58.9 per cent Supernova. Smoked Montgomery's cheddar was eye-wateringly overdoing it – and Spain's Picos de Europa vine leaf covered cow's milk blue cheese was just too blue. My favourite was a complex Berkswell cheese from the Midlands, with a nutty, grainy texture.

My ultimate Ardbeg, Uigeadail (pronounced Oog-a-dal), proved easiest to match. This rich malt was delicious with Mull cheddar – but the best match of all was with parmesan.

It seems strange that good old Parmigiano Reggiano was the outright winner. La Fromagerie's version (San Carlo No 552) from prime grazing areas of Reggio Emilia is one of the best I have had: incredibly fruity, with a gritty texture.

I'm not sure many of us would munch chunks of parmesan after a meal or add a malt beside our cheeseboard, but La Fromagerie owner Patricia Michelson says the star parmesan is the healthiest cheese around, as the slow ageing process develops and disperses its goodness. A healthy Father's Day challenge.

taste test Ardbeg whiskies

ARDBEG BLASDA

45.99

Light sherbet, limey, floral, lightly nutty aperitif style; at 40 per cent this chill-filtered malt is attractively creamy and delicate, but lacks excitement. 14/20

ARDBEG 10 YEAR OLD

34.99

Hints of smoked fish, toffee, vanilla, espresso coffee with a medicinal edge with water added; surely one of the best 10 year olds in the business today. 17/20

ARDBEG UIG

46.99

Toffee, caramel, rich fruity, becoming more raisiny with water added; intense earthy, wild savage high-notes; incredibly complex. 18.5/20

ARDBEG SUPERNOVA

73.99

The Peatometer is off the scale on this one: it reminds me of over-smoky bacon crisps and old tobacco - just over the top. Vanilla, pepper and honeyed notes enhance the palate, but it's for peat geeks only. 15/20

n All at Oddbins stores.

Beastie touring programme

Today Edinburgh

Oddbins, Corstorphine, 1:30pm-4pm; Oddbins, Elm Row, 5:30pm-8pm.

Tomorrow Glasgow

Oddbins, Mitchell Street, 1:30pm-4pm; Oddbins, Crow Road, 5:30pm-8pm.

n Visit www.ardbegbeastiemobile.co.uk and www.lafromagerie.co.uk for more information

THE BEST DEALS THIS WEEKEND

White GAVI DI GAVI LA MONETTA 2008

(6.69, reduced from 8.99, Waitrose until 30 June)

Nutty, creamy and vibrant – an excellent example of the cortese grape.

White LES BEAUCHAMPS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008

(4.75 each in 12 bts deal or 5.99 a bottle, Oddbins)

Best of Oddbins' brand new vin de pays; creamy gooseberry fruits, rich new world in style.

Ros GABBIANO TOSCANA ROS 2007

(4.99, Asda)

Surprisingly fresh crisp, fruity and dry made in Chianti from its main grape, sangiovese.