Gleneagles Townhouse chef Jonny Wright on creating Edinburgh's most luxurious brunch

It’s available for one weekend every month

Jonny Wright, head chef of Gleneagles Townhouse

Gleneagles Hotel in Perthshire is known for having arguably the best hotel breakfast in Scotland.

Their little sister, Gleneagles Townhouse in Edinburgh, does a decent brekkie for guests and non-residents too, but now it’s upped its game with The Spence Brunch Club.

At £85 a person, this meal, which is held from 12-3pm on the last Saturday and Sunday of each month, is possibly the most expensive of its kind in the Capital. However, you can get your money’s worth, as there’s the opportunity to eat yourself into a stupor, thanks to a buffet, which consists of shellfish, IJ Mellis cheese, Company Bakery bread, seafood, salads and cured meats. You can visit this as many times as you like, and wash the spoils down with a choice of a mimosa, mocktail, or bloody Mary.

The chocolate fountain at Gleneagles Townhouse

That’s just your starter. Round two is a main course from a menu that includes includes the Scottish leg of lamb.

The final flourish, should you get this far, is a sweep of their Dessert Room. This space features a chocolate fountain, a doughnut stall (fill them with dulce de leche, or raspberry jam), sweets, patisserie, and yet more cheese.

The head chef, Jonny Wright, tells us about designing what could be the ultimate brunch.

What was the inspiration for Gleneagles Townhouse’s brunch?

Doughnut station

“The Spence is a place to share and enjoy the best food that Edinburgh has to offer, so showcasing what we can do in a brunch setting just made sense. We always use the best Scottish produce, so our buffet bar top highlights the amazing suppliers we use, including IJ Mellis and East Coast Cured. We’ve taken some inspiration from Gleneagles as it’s world renowned for its breakfast and brunch offering but tweaked it to align with The Spence’s ethos and to ensure it would work for the city. We’ve similar displays and ‘wow’ moments but what sets us apart is how we have made it interactive. For example, there’s a chef slicing cured meats to order on a Berkel slicer and our private dining room is transformed into a miniature pastry kitchen, with a live doughnut station, chocolate fountain and never-ending cheese board. Our sister hotel hosts a monthly brunch at The Birnam, so we knew we wanted to bring its excellence down to Edinburgh. We did try to bring their famous ice cream bike here, but we couldn’t get it through the door!”

Who on the team came up with the bespoke bloody Mary station?

“That was our amazing bar manager Stef Anderson’s idea. We created our own tomato blend and spice mix and knew that we wanted our guests to be able to garnish it to their exact preference, so designed our garnishing station that features bacon, olives, pickles, cheese and locally made hot sauces so you can add your own personal touch.”

Anything you hope to introduce in the future?

Langoustines at The Spence's brunch

“After every brunch weekend we will always try and enhance it to make it even better. We are constantly evolving it, especially for when it comes to regulars, so they get something a little different each time they come. We’ve some cool ideas up our sleeves that I can’t go into too many details on, but oysters and caviar may make an appearance. Enhancements will also depend on the seasons. Christmas for example will be completely different to our current offering.”

Do you think this is the best brunch in the Capital?

“Yes. I’m not being biased but I genuinely do think the interactive side makes it unique. You can eat your body weight in shellfish, have beautifully carved cured meats, seasonal mains and hopefully be smart enough to leave room for dessert as that is the showcase; we’ve chefs piping donuts on request which many then dip into our huge chocolate fountain, which I think is an awesome idea. We also have a live band that creates an amazing atmosphere, and how could you say no to a Champagne trolley on a Saturday afternoon?”

What are the rules of brunch? Does it matter if you have it in the afternoon? What do you wear?

The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse

“There are no rules, we serve ours between 12-3 pm. Me? I wear my chef whites most of the time! Just kidding. There is no strict dress code, we want everyone to feel comfortable and relaxed. Some people dress up, some casual, it is quite mixed.”

Does Edinburgh have a brunch scene like the one in London, or are we quite far behind that curve?

“In London you are spoilt for choice for restaurants with lavish brunch offerings. Edinburgh is slowly catching up, and it is great to see more restaurants tapping into the brunch scene recently in the city. I think it will come.”

What are you most proud of, when it comes to this brunch?

“My team for their hard work and adapting to the style of service. I am also proud when I hear guests’ feedback. I am on the floor, and get such lovely comments about the brilliant service and excellent value for money.”

Do you think anyone will have space to take full advantage of pudding?

“I advise all guests to go into the dessert room first so they can save some room for it, or to start there and make their way back.”

How long do you think people will spend doing brunch?

“Every guest is different. They’ve three hours on the table to be able to relax and enjoy it. If they want, they can have a little break as there is a lot to get through.”

39 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh (0131 322 3780, www.gleneagles.com)