A matter of taste: Elderflower

IT IS said that summer starts when the elderflower blooms and ends when its berries are ripe. The culinary uses of elderflower are pretty much limited to flavouring drinks – it has been used for centuries to make wines, liqueurs and cordials – though it was once added to scone and teacake batters. The flowering season only lasts about three weeks and it is better to harvest when just in bloom – and stick to trees away from roads, as the flowers pick up pollutants easily.

A steaming infusion of elderflower is considered a remedy for hay fever. A better use, however, could be this:

ELDERFLOWER CORDIAL

20 elderflower heads; 1 sliced lemon; 2 tsp citric acid (from health-food stores); 1.5kg granulated sugar

Place all the ingredients in a bowl then pour on 1.2 litres boiling water and stir until the sugar dissolves. Skim the surface to remove any scum and cover with a clean cloth. Stir twice daily for five days (re-cover each time). Strain through a muslin cloth and decant into sterile bottles. It will keep in the fridge for up to a month. It makes a refreshing alternative to lemonade, diluted with five parts water over ice.